Apparatus foe



PETER SPILMAN, OF RICHMOND, VIRGINIA.

l APPARATUS FOR LAYING OFF THE SCYE IN CUTTING GARMENTS.

lSpecifnation ofLetters Patent No. 11,839, dated July 18, 1854.

To all whom, t may concern:

Beit known `that I, PETER SPILMAN, ofthe -city of Richmond, county of Henrico, and State of Virginia, have invented a new and Improved Apparatus for Locating the Arun holes of Coats; and I do herebydeclare that the following is a full and exactdescription thereof, `reference being had to the accompanying drawings `and to the letters of reference marked thereon.

The nature of `my invention consists in an apparatus by means of which, after obtainm'g certain measures, `I canwith precision` locate the armhole to be cut out of a` piece of cloth intended fora coat.

`Figures land 2 represent suflicient of a mans ligure, to show how the square rule is applied, and `also to show the points from which measurements are taken. Fig. 3 is a diagram showing the manner of constructing my apparatus for laying oft' armholes; Fig. 5, shows the apparatus for laying off armholes; Fig. 6 shows the back piece of the coat, `cut from the cloth in the usual manner; Fig. 7 shows the `mode of using my apparatusFig. 5 on the cloth.

these ligures donot land could not indicate corresponding parts.

My apparatus is constructed as follows,

i i see Figs. 3 and 4: Take a stiff ipaper board;

on this, ,draw two lines A, and B, forming a right angle; from their point of intersection a, lay off on the line A, one and one-eighth inches to the point b; from the point a, lay off siX inches on the line B, to the point 0,' join b, c; from the point Z), lay off l- `inches on `the line b, c, to the `point (Z. At the point c, draw` the lineC, at rightan gles to the line B; and on this line C, from the point c, lay off l inches to the point o,

join c; on the line Z9, c, from the point b, lay off 4ginches to the point f; join cl, 7; divide the line el, f, into 24 equal, or nearly equal parts.

The mode of numbering the divisions of the line d, f, and of the other numbered lines, will be explained further on. From the point e, on the line C, lay olf 12; inches to the point g; join b, g; from on the line ZJ, g, lay off 34 inches to the point 71,; divide g, it; divisions and numbers on this line the same as on the line CZ, f. From g, on line C, lay of 34 inches to z'; join 6,75; from b, lay off 3g inches to j; divide and number z', j,

in the same manner with d, f. From z', on

line C, lay of 8% inches to le; join Z), lo;

from b, on line b, lo, la-y off 3?,- inches to Z, and 79j inches to m; divide and number Z, m, in thesame manner with d, f. At 7c, draw line D, at right angles to line C; on D, from 70, lay olf 8 inches to n; join ZJ, n; from I), on o, n, lay 0E inches to 0, and 7;;- inches to` p,- divideV and number o, p, in the same mann-er with cl,

The numbers seen in the diagram, Fig. 5, are determined 1n the following manner:

They are the measurements, which in prac-V tice, are taken by the common inch line used by tailors, from the po-int a, (Fig. l), over the shoulder and following the seam of the armhole, to the point b (in Fig. 2) g: the positions of these two points will be described hereafter: the number 9%-, which is the lowest number seen in the diagram, is the shortest measurement which would probably be taken in inches between the two points a (Fig. l) and ZJ (Fig. 2) it would be the measure of a small sized boy the number 16-3, is the corresponding measure of the largest sized man: l the difference between these two numbers There being so many different figures, and referring to different things, the letters on (9i, and 16%) is divided into 24 parts, as nearly equal as will be necessary, or convenient in using the inch tape line; and

. application.

The operation of my apparatus is as fol lows; I place` the rule across the back of the person as shown in Figs. l and 2, its general direction being horizontal; the long arm 0, is placed across the back, and the short arm d, snug up under t-he arm:` mark with a chalk, the intersection e, of the upper vedge of the rule and the back seam ofthe coat; mark the coat at the point a, directly opposite to the angle of the rule; mark also a point b, (Fig. 2) where a vertical line tangent to the seam of the sleeve intersects the upper edge of the rule: the rule is now dispensed with.

For purposes of explanation, I will assume a certain measurement of a man: suppose the measure, by an inch line, from e, around `the bodyl to Z), to be 12 inches; I have found lOO that the point a (Fig. 1) is generally midway between e, and b; e a, and a I), are therefore in this assumed case, equal to siX inches each: from the top g (Fig. 1) of the back seam, measure across the shoulder and down to the point l); suppose this to be 13 inches; from the point a (Fig. 1) across the shoulder and along the armhole seam, to b, (Fig. 2) suppose 121g inches: these three are the only measures required for my apparatus; the other measures, as for the back, collar, front, &c., are taken in the usual manner; the back is cut from the cloth in the ordinary way, allowing about of an inch in width, over the measure, for a proper looseness of fit (see Fig. 7.) Now, to use my apparatus, and lay off the armhole on the cloth to fit the assumed person: suppose Fig. 8 to be the piece of cloth: draw a line A, with chalk, about an inch from its back edge, and parallel with this edge; at a distance of five inches from this line, draw a line B, parallel with it; this five inches, together with the eXtra size given to the back, as mentioned above, will be the assumed measurement from e to a.' draw a line C, on the cloth, at right angles to A, and B: the position of this line @,is not material, but should be placed so that the cloth will not waste in cutting: the assumed measure from a, across the shoulder to b, being 1253- inches, find the points marked 121gon the Nos. 1, 2 and 3, of the diagram, Fig. 5:' (It should have been statedthat a longitudinal slit is cut along each of the Nos. 1, 2, 3, &c., in my apparatus, so that the cloth may be marked with a pointed chalk opposite to each one of the divisions on these numbers.) The point 12g on No. 1 (Fig. 5) must be placed on the line C, and those on Nos. 2, and 3, must be placed on the line B; mark on the cloth, opposite to all the Nos. 1, 2, 3, f1, and 5, of diagram, Fig. 5: draw a curve through these points, in the usual method of tailors, and you will have the part of the armhole from a to b, Fig. 8; continue this curve from b, to the point 0,` on line A, one inch from intersection of lines A, and C, and you will have the entire curve of the armhole for the measure assumed. f

To get the shoulder of the coat; draw a line D, on the cloth, parallel to C (Fig. 8) and 13 inches from it, (13 inches being. the assumed measure) from g (Fig. 1) over and down the shoulder to C (Fig. 2) now, having the back cut out of the cloth, (Fig. 7) the curve of the armhole laid off on it, and the line D determined by the measure from g to b, the manner of cutting out the shoulder of the coat is familiar to all tailors.

It will be readily seen that my invention does not consist in any system of measurement, although a few measures must be taken, and taken in a particular manner, before my apparatus can be applied. I do not profess to be able to locate the position of the armhole in the coat; but when its position is determined by the ordinary measures, my apparatus gives the precise curve to the armhole: armholes determined by this apparatus will be found nearly circular, and will cause the sleeve to lit easily in coats of all shapes. It is not easy to give a demonstration of the problem presented by this apparatus; I believe that4 its operation is now as perfect as practicable; and this has been attained only after continuous attempts carried on through several years.

It must be understood that my apparatus does not lay off the armholes of a uniform curve, Varying only in size, to suit different sized persons; but the form of the curve changes with the size and with the shape'of the person; so that whether the back be broad or narrow, the chest deep or thin, the shoulders erect or stooping, the curve laid ofll on the cloth will invariably be found to giver an armhole of a smooth and graceful lit.

And in this important point-that o-f accommodating itself to every shaped person--my invention will be found to differ from all those heretofore attempted.

I do not claimthe laying down of lines on a diagram, for determining points of the armholes of the coats, considered irrespective of the precise manner in which these f lines are placed relatively; for I know that diagrams with lines on them, but differingl entirely from those whichv I have invented, have heretofore been made; but

)Vhat I claim as my invention, is-

The apparatus consisting of the diagram, Fig. 5 in the drawings, constructed and operating in the manner and for the purposes described in the speciiication and drawings.

PETER SPILMAN- Vitnesses SAML. GRUBB, R. W. JOHNSTON. 

